Mountain Blog Book

With Scott. IV,5. Fantastic route in good nick. I led the first crux and Scott the second. Probably the best grade IV I’ve done. Weather wasn’t too bad in the morning but very windy by the time we’d descended Aladdin’s. Walk out was crazy windy and the car park even worse.

With Scott. II/IV. Went to do Andromeda but it was just too windy. I lead the main pitch and Scott ran us to the top. Two steep steps – first was straightforward but the top one was really good – IV condition. Nice if shortlived route.

With Scott. III,4. Alternate leads. Not much gear on the first pitch. Day started mild and got milder. Windy when we topped out. Planned to do the Seam but another pair already on it and didn’t want to wait. Weirdly felt harder than the higher-graded Deep Cut Chimney which we’d done the day before…

With Scott. IV,5. Windy, cold day. What a cracking route. The neve must have been as good as it gets. Alternate leads, Scott led the back-and-footing top pitch out of the hole. Really enjoyed it.

With Dougal and Susie. IV,4. Dougal led the first two pitches and I led the top pitch. Route under 6-8″ of fresh snow, but good neve and frozen turf underneath that. Not much gear on the first pitch. We took the turfy line to the right of the chimney. Really nice day out and only [...]

Dull and damp day. Walked up Glen a Chlachain with two GAs from the course at the Station. Slow going so only made it to the col before coming back.

From Edinample to the bealach between Stuc and Vorlich, up to the summit and down. With Jez and his AMC party. Soft, saturated snowpack but a nice, sunny day.

With Rob. Maclay’s Crack III 4. A wild weather day. Lots of snow down to valley level. Roads were bad on the drive to Arrochar. Did the route in two pitches. Exposed turf was well frozen. Rob led the first pitch and I led the second. Mostly straightforward, but enough challenging bits to keep it [...]

Overnight trip for a BBC story. With Petesy and a couple of people from the Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Walked south from the Inversnaid Hotel for a few mile along the West Highland Way, and then cut up into the hills north of Ben Lomond. Found a lovely spot to camp directly opposite [...]

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