Climbing the 50-degree headwall of the Bravo Glacier on Mount Waddington was one of the more invigorating parts of the trip. We had to cross a large bergschrund at the foot of the headwall – via a fragile snow bridge – and then plough a trench up through steep, soft snow.

I found only one decent anchor and we were forced to move together most of the way with nothing attaching us to the slope.

As we neared the top, the sun hit the slope – making the situation even more precarious. I shouted with relief when I reached level ground.

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