This is Arbab, Alan and Neal’s driver on our journey into the Wakhan Corridor. Arbab was flamboyant and drove too fast, which caused his ancient 4×4 to overheat frequently. Every time it did we had to stop near a stream so he could top up with water.

In contrast, our driver, Payenda, was serious and cautious. Though he would collapse into giggles if someone hit the button that made the musical ram mounted on his dashboard perform.

When Arbab ploughed recklessly into liquified mud and got stuck, Payenda had to pull him out.

Stuck in the mud

He wasn’t impressed when Arbab’s jeep, suddenly freed of the sucking mud, reversed straight into him.

Hey! You broke my bullbars. Also, see musical ram on dash

At one point on our journey, Payenda screeched to a halt and ran off with Adab, our translator, leaving us sitting in the car wondering what the hell was going on. This sort of thing can be nerve-wracking in Afghanistan, even when your driver has a musical ram mounted on the dashboard. But it turns out they had spotted a quail with chicks, and were chasing them.

The impromptu quail hunt

The hunt was successful and Payenda kept them tucked in his shirt pocket for the rest of the trip. He was keeping them as pets for his son.

Soon to be domesticated quails